Earlier this Spring I got to visit a new-to-me part of California. This stunning area has so much to offer, including two of California’s oldest historic hotels. Let me tell you why you need to plan a trip to Upstate California! The trip was super easy from Los Angeles. I flew out of Burbank with a couple of the other gals and another departed from LAX. We all arrived in no time to Sacramento, then drove straight to Nevada City. Fun fact: the city was named before the state. The second stop was Grass Valley!

Why you need to plan a trip to Upstate California • historic hotels

Two historic hotels, which happen to be two of the oldest hotels in California, were recently brought back to life. The Acme Hospitality team, who operates a collection of some of my favorite restaurants in the Santa Barbara funk zone, was behind the renovations. I really enjoyed seeing the contrasting vibes the two hotels represent. One is more feminine and vibrant, yet dark and elusive at times. The other, a tad more masculine, airy, classic and charming. I love the way they walked the line between masculine and feminine at both properties. The restorations and redesigns were overseen by a talented team of designers: Anne L’Esperance, Doug Washington Design, and Bri Ingram. What stayed with me most was how both hotels feel deeply rooted in their communities, thanks to the way the team thoughtfully collaborated with local artisans and craftspeople to bring the spaces back to life.

The National Exchange Hotel

When we walked into The National Exchange Hotel, I immediately noticed the juxtaposition of old and new, bright and dark. They really nailed the balance between integrating modern touches while still maintaining the timeless feminine elegance of the Victorian Era. The hotel was originally built in 1856, smack dab in the middle of the gold rush. Surprisingly, it wasn’t until 1973 that this gem was listed in the National Register of Historic Places. In 2018, close to condemnation, she was given a new lease on life after an extensive, three-year, floor-to-rafters renovation. Both the hotel and restaurant feature rich colors, patterns, opulent furnishings and restored original details.

Local historic figure Lola Montez, a gold rush era performer who intrigued audiences across the country, is a muse of the updated property. You can see her influence as well as the feminine spirit in general in the art and textiles throughout the property.

Out of the 38 guest rooms, no two are the same – each with a distinct design of curated vintage furniture and lighting complemented by modern amenities. My room had beautiful natural light coming through the windows throughout the day, lighting up the golden fixtures and touches throughout. I immediately fell in love with the aesthetic, both calming and playful – a wonderful twist on the usual boutique hotel aesthetic I have come to expect. Take note of that radiator in the picture on the left. Those will come into play again very soon.

Holbrooke Hotel

Holbrooke Hotel in Grass Valley, was lovingly restored in 2021. The original building was built as the Golden Gate Saloon in 1852. A year later, the single-story Exchange Hotel, named because of the convenient location to the local Gold Exchange, was added behind the saloon. In 1855, along with most of Grass Valley, a fire destroyed the saloon and hotel, but were quickly rebuilt. Again in 1862 the hotel caught fire, then was rebuilt as a two-story hotel with plenty of fireproof measures. This is the building you’ll see when you visit today. In 1879 the hotel was purchased by Ellen and Daniel Holbrooke, giving it its current name. In 1974, The Holbrooke Hotel was declared a California State Landmark.

The current iteration celebrates the spirit of the rustic-yet-refined frontiersman from the California Gold Rush. It blends modern luxuries seamlessly with a historically unique property throughout its 28 rooms. The property is definitely the high end style and ambiance that you expect from a boutique hotel – mostly bright white walls with touches of comfortable elegance throughout. Set in the heart of Grass Valley, it’s the perfect hub for an upstate CA trip.

Over the years, Holbrooke Hotel has hosted many famous guests including U.S. Presidents, prize fighters, and authors, such as Mark Twain.

Which property would you rather stay at? I honestly love both for different reasons!

Why you need to plan a trip to Upstate California • the delicious food and beverage scene

National Exchange Hotel

You don’t have to go far to find fantastic food and drink in Nevada City, you don’t even have to leave the hotel! National Bar has been a favorite gathering place for generations. Soak up the unique timeless, yet modern ambiance of this historic tavern – serving up numerous beers, wine, classic and craft cocktails, plus a small menu of shareable snacks, small bites and sweet treats. Take a look around the walls, they’re full of snapshots of women from times past. One of my favorite things they repurposed in the remodel is the radiators. I told you they would come into play again! If you missed them, scroll back up and look at the radiator in my room, then down at the bar below. How cool is that?

Be sure to check what events they have while you’re in town – like Wild West Wednesdays, Drag Queen Bingo, Noor (a night of belly dancing) and live music. You can see the current schedule here.

Lola, the restaurant on property, named after the aforementioned Lola Montez, serves a seasonally driven, locally sourced menu inspired by French traditional technique. Executive Chef Alan Gosker, a native of Ireland’s culinary capital, Galway, is at the helm – defining this foothill region of California in an approachable and playful way. Both brunch and dinner were top tier.

MY FAVORITE DISHES

Brunch: Smashed Avocado Toast Deer Creek Sourdough, mint whipped feta, avocado, two poached eggs, pickled onion, spiced pepitas (I am not usually one to order avo toast, but this was WORTH breaking my rule) • Dinner: Scotch Egg (not on the regular menu, but order it if you see it) | Carrots pomegranate molasses, cashew cream, mint, satsuma | Mary’s Fried Chicken colcannon (Irish mashed potatoes), gravy, green beans, Fresno pepper, honey mustard | Olive Oil Cake honey ricotta buttercream, almond, limoncello

More in Nevada City

BrewBilt Brewhaus is the perfect laid back spot in town, whether you just want an ice cold beer or to sit down for a casual meal. I really enjoyed the IPA I tried, alongside this massive pretzel! They use regionally-sourced local malt, premium hops, and pristine water for their beers. Source

Need an easy breakfast or a quick caffeine fix? Check out Communal Coffee, just steps from the hotel!

Holbrooke Hotel

While staying at Holbrooke Hotel, you also don’t have to go far for wonderful food and beverages! Golden Gate Saloon is the longest continually running watering hole west of the Mississippi. In 1852, it started filling glasses of prospectors who were in town to make it rich during the gold rush. After a fire in 1855, the next day the owners adapted quickly by selling whiskey and beer to their loyal customers from a tent among the rubble. Now that is dedication! My favorite fun fact here is that the bar was brought over on a ship from Italy in 1852 – it’s the same one you see in the saloon today. They serve up classic and seasonal cocktails, regional and international wines, plus a selection of beers from near and far. The bar seamlessly flows into the dining room, but you can also enjoy their outdoor patio.

The menu features contemporary dishes, using locally sourced ingredients, reminiscent of Old West taverns and steakhouses. Chef Robb Wyss embodies farm-to-table traditions, rooted in his upbringing where his passion for fresh, locally sourced ingredients was established.

MY FAVORITE DISHES

Huli Huli Chicken Wings pineapple, scallion, furikake, teriyaki bbq hot sauce | House Burrata balsamic roasted strawberry, lavender honey fresh baked focaccia, micro basil | Brussels Sprouts tomato jam, basil pesto, garlic breadcrumbs parmesan, balsamic

Downstairs, step into the Iron Door Speakeasy – reimagined with warm lighting, wood ceilings and the original stone walls. You might also notice the original metal doors that once led to underground tunnels. Immerse yourself in the space while you sip on handcrafted and blended classic and craft cocktails, or opt for some wine or beer.

Why you need to plan a trip to Upstate California • beautiful scenery, walkability, so much to do

Nevada City

There are so many lovely places to explore, both on foot and with a car! From shopping, hiking, and delving into the history of the town – there’s something for everyone.

SHOPPING

We popped into a few shops! Fun fact: the majority of the shops in town are women-owned!

Kitkitdizzi: “salt of the earth, ethically-sourced, artisan-constructed excellence”

Winnie Superette: “A small, modern Asian market offering curated beverages, snacks, groceries, and homewares. We also feature weekly local produce, to-go food and baked goods. Stocked with hard-to-find nostalgic favorites and exciting new specialty goods.”

NATURE

Deer Creek Tribute Trail: Looking to dive deeper into nature? Just blocks from The National Exchange Hotel, this trail is such a lovely option. It memorializes the early contributions of the native Nisenan and Chinese people who are a huge part of the history of the town. We walked to the suspension bridge – Nisenan Tribute Bridge or “Anqkula Seo” which goes over Deer Creek.

Buttermilk Bend Trail: Known for its breathtaking display of wildflowers during spring, but I’ve heard it’s lovely year-round.

Crystal Hermitage: Visit this breathtaking property which was founded over 40 years ago by Swami Kriyananda, an American Hindu religious leader, yoga guru, meditation teacher, musician, and author. Its terraced gardens are part of Ananda Village, a spiritual community dedicated to meditation and self-realization. Each spring, the gardens burst into color with over 19,000 tulips (among so many other blooms), offering visitors a visit into a magical wonderland.

HISTORICAL

Doris Foley Historical Library: A non-circulating branch of the Nevada County Library, housed in a 1907 Romanesque Revival Carnegie building listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It preserves and provides in-library access to a wide range of historical materials related to the county, including manuscripts, photographs, maps, and personal papers.

Nevada Theatre: The oldest, continuously operated theatre venue on the west coast of the US, which opened in the 1860s. Peek into this beautifully renovated space, which isn’t complete without the mural designed and painted by Sarah Coleman. The mural is entitled “Drop by Drop, A River is Formed,” which celebrates the local community – including local flora and fauna, plus elements representative of the Nisenan tribe, the original inhabitants of the land, as well as the Chinese community who had a huge impact during the gold rush in town. Here is a video showing the process.

Grass Valley

Empire Mine Historic Park: Visit the site of one of the oldest, deepest, and richest gold mines in California. It was in operation for more than 100 years, extracting 5.8 million ounces of gold before closing in 1956. Walk around the park visiting the owner’s home, restored gardens, plus the entrance to 367 miles of abandoned and flooded mine shafts. There are 14 miles of hiking trails, which are also great for mountain biking and horseback riding.

Upstate California is definitely a place I’m already thinking about returning to — there’s so much more to explore, and of course some favorites I’ll want to go back to. I’ve heard the Yuba River is a must-visit, especially in the warmer months. Between the beautifully restored historic hotels, the vibrant food scene, and the natural beauty all around, this region invites you to slow down and soak it all in, it’s easy to see why you need to plan a trip to Upstate California.